Visit Kemi: This is How To Do Winter in Finland

Words by Dalene Heck / Photography and Video by Dalene & Pete Heck

After a week of exploring Helsinki, we had found ourselves disappointed by one thing: the severe lack of snow. If we were going to be in Finland in winter, we wanted to enjoy Finland in winter.

Our next stop was due north and approaching the Arctic Circle – after a quick flight to Oulu and drive to Kemi, Finland, we found ourselves marvelling at piles of the fluffy white stuff. And piles. And piles.

Kemi reminded me so much of where I grew up in northern Alberta. It’s a small town where the sun is scarce, and winter exists more months than not. It has a sleepy, quiet feel, and if you didn’t know better, at first glance, Kemi appears to offer nothing more than a simple life for those who live there.

But there is one significant difference: Kemi is a model town for tourism and defines how an off-beat destination can embrace its state and turn the heavy hand of winter into something incredibly positive. Among other things, two massive attractions bring this sleepy town to life.

2 Must Things to Do in Kemi, Finland, in Winter

Dine and Sleep in a Snow Castle

Our first night in town was timed with the opening of the 20th annual LumiLinna Snow Castle. It should be noted that staying at a snow castle or one of the unique glass igloos in Finland is becoming very popular due to the chance to see the northern lights.

For the LumiLinna snow castle, the whole town appeared to converge outside the structure as we were treated to live music, fireworks, and the first opportunity to scope out the rooms. LumiLinna is the largest snow structure in the world, and it is magically assembled in only about three weeks.

Inside is a restaurant that seats 200 people (and serves a luscious creamy reindeer soup), with tables made from ice blocks (of course) lifted from the bay. There’s a hotel with themed rooms and a chapel that keeps busy throughout the season.

Cruise on the Sampo Ice Breaker

Where else in the world can you board a ship specifically meant for breaking through the sea ice? Of course, you can in Finland. That’s just what you do while you’re there.

The morning we were to board the Sampo Ice Breaker, a friend of ours sent an email bragging about the heat and humidity in Bali. Clearly, he doesn’t know us very well. Give us the choice between a sticky hot beach and the chill of a winter activity, and we’ll take the latter every single time.

But as we boarded the ice breaker that morning, on the coldest day of our entire travels in Finland (-25C), we wondered if maybe this time we had taken it too far. As we cruised out of the bay, busting up the frozen harbour as we went, the wind on deck cut right through us. Others retreated quickly to the cabins, but instead, we layered up even further. Pete and I were two of the few that remained for that formidable experience.

That stunning sound of the ship sliding on top of the ice and continuously crushing it beneath will be something that stays with us forever. As Finland is one of the only countries in the world where it is possible for all harbours to become completely frozen, this is one of many ice breaker ships in the country, necessary so other ships can come and go in winter. Small and out of date, the Sampo was built in the 1960s and bought in the mid-80s by the town of Kemi to be turned into this tourist attraction.

And what would a Finnish tourist attraction be without the opportunity to swim with giant ice cubes? We’ve worn these giant red suits only once before, and yes, it was on our last trip to Finland.

The ship parked for a couple of hours to enable us all to take a dip in the frosty waters. No, there is no way for the water to get into the suits. And yes, we were perfectly cozy inside of them. It was, in fact, very relaxing to bob around in the water.

Forget the white sand beach – this is the type of unique experience we came to Finland for. This is how you do winter.

How to do it and where we stayed

Kemi, Finland is roughly a two-hour drive from the Oulu airport. Do yourself a favour and check into the comfortable and historic Merihovi Hotel when you arrive. The Snow Castle is open from the end of January until the warm sum takes it away! Be sure to book ahead for a reservation in the restaurant, a room in the snow hotel, or what the hell, go ahead and get married there too.

Bust some ice (and rhymes) on the Sampo Ice Breaker from mid-December through early April (depending on ice levels). Day and evening cruises are available.

This post was produced by us, brought to you by Visit Finland.