A Romantic Getaway to Winnipeg – Celebrating 23 Years
Words by Pete Heck / Photography by Pete & Dalene Heck
When you’ve been married for as long as we have (we just celebrated 23 years!), romance can slip down the priority list. Over time, it gets easier to slot things like work above it. But one thing that we can contend (having made it 23 years) is that making time for each other is always worth the effort. And if that quality time also happens to involve travel, then all the better.
Which is why when Tourism Winnipeg asked us to celebrate our anniversary in their city, we didn’t hesitate to accept the invitation. It wasn’t our first (or even our second or third) time visiting Winnipeg, and one thing we know for sure is that every time we visit, we come away having discovered some new-to-us delight. On this trip, made in the name of love and romance, we discovered many.
Caveat: If you followed along with our visit on social media, you’ll know that Dalene hurt her back on the first day and ended up bed-bound for the duration. While she was unable to enjoy everything, I proceeded to explore on my own. Rather than dwell on her misfortune, I still wanted to highlight all of the wonderful things I did, saw, and ate so that any other couples looking for a romantic getaway in Winnipeg will find some inspiration! (But hopefully, not the same backache as Dalene.)
What to Do in Winnipeg for 2 Days
Thermëa by Nordik Spa-Nature
Our first order of business was to get in the right relaxed and romantic mindset with a trip to Thermëa.
We’ve done Nordic spas before, but visiting Thermëa was a truly unique experience. It’s smaller and more tranquil than others we’ve been to, and extremely relaxing and comfortable.
We arrived just before sunrise to a stunning setting of fall colours surrounded by steam rising off the hot pools. We started with the full thermal cycle for maximum benefit, and then took a break in the lounge for a casual breakfast.
Not to be missed is the aufguss ritual – based on an ancient German practice and situated in the sauna room, participants relax while the ritual artisan pours water and snow enriched with natural essential oils onto the hot sauna rocks. As the steam rises, the artisan, using choreographed movements with a towel, feels the room with the vapour and aroma. It is a treat for all the senses!
Following that was a visit to the relaxation room filled with large mattresses and pillows. It is also known as the “nap room” for good reason – we were warned that we would almost certainly hear snoring if we spent any time in there. (This is indeed true thanks to Dalene – she’s the problem – she’s the snorer!)
Explore The Leaf (After Dark)
Located in the heart of Winnipeg’s Assiniboine Park is The Leaf – the largest public garden project in North America. It’s an engineering marvel that consists of four biodomes that house lush, diverse vegetation from around Manitoba and throughout the world.
There’s a tropical biodome, a Mediterranean biodome and even a Butterfly Garden. And right smack dab in the middle of The Leaf is a six-storey waterfall. Not only is its purpose for visitor selfies, it acts as a humidifier for all the plants in the tropical biodome.
Seeing The Leaf during the day is surely incredible. But what I was most looking forward to is seeing The Leaf “After Dark”. This is a ticketed adult-only event hosted on select evenings throughout the year. The domes and pathways throughout are lit up and in the centre of the Mediterranean biodome is a live band, perfect for grabbing a glass of wine and soaking in the ambiance.
I wandered the paths and took the elevator up to the top floor so I could look down on the domes below. It was up here that I had the chance to see the Butterfly Garden, and it was so beautiful.
It was an enchanting evening, with lots of couples walking hand-in-hand or with arms around one another. (It was unfortunate that I couldn’t share it with Dalene.)
Hike, Bike and/or Paddle at FortWhyte Alive
It was a crisp and cool morning when I arrived at FortWhyte Alive, and the timing for fall colours was almost perfect. I wandered all 7kms of trails and spied on some buffalo. Earlier in the year I could have also cycled or taken a canoe – there are many ways to connect with nature here.
Highlights from my visit included:
- The Interpretive Centre – It helped me get an understanding about FortWhyte, the land, the peoples, and animals throughout Manitoba, including the bison that are on the premises.
- Walking Trails – 7 km trail through prairie, marsh, aspen forest, and lakes.
- The Wetland Boardwalk Trail – This is a network of floating paths throughout the marshes and wetlands in the park. I definitely had to hold onto my hat when the winds picked up and I was in the middle of the water.
- Storied People’s Trail – This is where I saw the Bison (43 of them!) in the Paddock. Along the way there were stories about the bison and what the animals mean to the Indigenous peoples. My best view was from the treehouse, which I had all to myself.
There are lots of things to do here year-round: think bison safaris in summer, cross-country skiing in winter, and much more.
Stroll the Riverwalk from Stephen Juba Park to The Forks
There are a few things that Dalene and I love more than just taking leisurely walks through new-to-us neighbourhoods. From our stay at the Fairmont, this walk (formally called the North Winnipeg Parkway), the 1.5 km, should take approximately 20-30 minutes, but it took me longer with photo stops.
With fall colours in play, the scenery certainly popped and included many highlights like The Forks, Esplanade Riel, and the Canadian Museum for Human Rights.
Savour St. Boniface
Starting at The Forks, I crossed the Red River via the impressive Esplanade Riel to arrive in St. Boniface, Winnipeg’s French Quarter. This trendy neighbourhood is deeply rooted in Francophone and Métis traditions and oozes charm and character. Stopping first for an incredible lunch at Promenade Brasserie (more on that later), I then wandered the streets to take in all that I could.
Highlights included:
- St Boniface Cathedral Cemetery – the gorgeous church facade has been restored and is a neighbourhood highlight. Also of note is the gravesite of Louis Riel, the founder of Manitoba.
- Wandering down Provencher Blvd and stopping at all the shops/cafes
- Sugar Mama Cookie Co. – You can bet that I brought some treats back to Dalene from here! Their cookies are extremely creative and not like any cookie you’ve had before.
- Cafe Postal – they brew up a mean cappuccino, the perfect spot to stop for a java break.
- Chocolatier Constance Popp – Chocolate lovers rejoice! This place has chocolate in every form.
- Bothwell Cheese Shop – Locals rave about the cheese from Bothwell, especially the cheese curds. I didn’t go in, because I was afraid I wouldn’t come out!
Wander Winnipeg’s Exchange District
Staying at the Fairmont Winnipeg gave me the perfect chance to explore Winnipeg’s Exchange District. In 1997, the district was deemed a “National Historic Site of Canada” because, in the early 1900s, Winnipeg was deemed the gateway to Canada’s West. Many of the buildings in the neighbourhood still have the facades and architectural look from when it held the key economic role in the west.
I wandered in and out of shops, was extremely disappointed that Cake-Ology was closed, grabbed a cappuccino from Más Coffee Co. and snapped so many photos of the street art and monuments along my walking route. There really is so much to do, see, and sample here – I would have loved more time in the area.
Eat, Drink and Eat Some More
We’ve said it many times before – Winnipeg is one of our fave spots in Canada for excellent food. There are so many incredible restaurants to sample, and as much as we feel compelled to return to places we’ve loved on previous visits, this time, it was all about what was new to us.
Bonnie Day
We sampled an array of dishes, including lamb pelmini, meatballs, and a memorable kale caesar (truly). The delicious cocktails and relaxed, inclusive vibe at Bonnie Day rounded out this noteworthy meal.
James Avenue Pumphouse
I loved the ambience in this restaurant and building (a municipal heritage site!), which includes preserved machinery and water pumps throughout. I enjoyed a pint while I waited for our food to go. What we ate/devoured: Thai noodle salad (brought back to the hotel for Dalene) and birria tacos.
Oxbow Natural Wine Bar and Restaurant
This popular Wine Bar and Restaurant is a lovely spot for a date night or to spend time with family and/or friends. There are plenty of sharing plates, but on my evening there, I was dining solo.
What I ate at Oxbow: Firm Québec cheese with rhubarb jam and pickled shallots, burrata with hot honey, brussel sprout salad and bone-in pork chop. All delicious!
Fergies Fish and Chips (at the Forks)
Yes, this Nova Scotian travelled to Manitoba and ate fish! But with pickerel from Lake Winnipeg, it is not a taste I can get at home. I had the two-piece pickerel (a really buttery fish) and chips, and would do it again.
Promenade Brasserie
Promenade Brasserie draws on its French-Métis roots and brings the freshest local ingredients to the table, and it showed in every bite. It was the best meal I ate in Winnipeg, and I shared smoked char on fry bread with herb oil and ordered the elk ragu pappardelle. With Dalene still recovering in the hotel, I dined with my friend Brenna, who had fried chicken on toast.
Nonsuch Brewing Co.
I was infinitely impressed with the setting at Nonsuch Brewing Co. And with their brews, while I only had one beer (the blackberry sour), I could easily have seen myself luxuriating here for a while. (This is also a place Dalene would have LOVED.)
Relax, Heal and Unwind at the Fairmont Winnipeg
Having spent most of our three-day visit bed-bound at the Fairmont, Dalene has much to say about how comfortable it was! Especially given that we were staying on the Gold floor, which came stacked with amenities. The almost round-the-clock snack buffet meant I could easily bring her food. The staff were also extremely friendly and accommodating, especially finding her a heating pad which helped immensely.
For me, its location of the Fairmont on the edge of the Exchange District, and being so close to the Riverwalk, meant I could easily explore the downtown as much as I did.
Despite our anniversary not going as we originally planned, it was still a lovely few days in one of our favourite Canadian cities. We saw parts of the city we’d never seen before, ate some amazing food, and relaxed and enjoyed each other.
This post was produced by us, sponsored by Tourism Winnipeg.
